Materials:
*plant materials for dyes
*yellow-sassafras bark, goldenrod flowers and stems
*black-black walnut root
*brown-leaves, hulls and whole nut of wild black walnut; butternut bark
*orange-root of bloodroot
*blue-flower of blue larkspur
*green-green leaves
*alum red-pokeberries, chokecherries, elderberries, sumac berries
*baking soda
*large kettle (4 gallons or 17 liters)
*aluminum or stainless steel pots
*cream of tartar
*bucket
*vinegar
*salt
Procedure:
l. The first step in natural dyeing is to gather the plant material. Materials such as flowers and roots may be gathered and dried for prolonged storage. Some natural plant dyes are available commercially at weaving or health and nutrition stores.
2. Before dyeing, fabrics must be treated with a mordant to set the dye. Instructions for making and using mordants follow. Natural dyeing as practiced on the frontier was not an exact science. Some experimentation may be neces-sary to achieve desired results.
3. To make a dye-prepare the plant material by cleaning and chopping roots, scraping stems and crushing leaves of flowers and nuts. Soak the prepared materials overnight. After soaking, boil until the dye has reached the desired shade (l/2 to 6 hours).
4. Natural dyes will not hold their color unless the fabric is first treated with a mordant. A mordant for wool or silk is made by dissolving 1 ounce of alum in 1 gallon of water and adding l/4 ounce of cream of tartar. For cotton or linen, add l/4 ounce of baking soda instead of cream of tartar.
5. Soak the material to be dyed in the mordant for about an hour. Rinse thoroughly before dyeing.
6. Dyeing-after dye has reached the proper shade, strain it into a kettle filled with 4 gallons of hot water and a little salt and vinegar. Mix thoroughly. The dye solution should be darker than the desired final color.
7. Immerse the fabric in the dye and simmer for 15 to 30 minutes. Turn the material with a wooden stick or spoon while dyeing. 8. Rinse the dyed material in cold water and hang to dry in a shady place.
Note: If you are collecting bloodroot or larkspur, take precautions not to deplete the plant population in any area. If plants are rare, either do not use or use only a few to experience the colors.
Be sure to ask permission from private landowners before collecting or digging plants. Many public areas have regulations about plant collection, so check with site managers before gathering. Digging plants is prohibited on roadsides and public lands in Missouri. Be careful when collecting and handling plants that may be poisonous. Bloodroot and larkspur may cause dermatitis. Parts of bloodroot, larkspur, pokeberry and elderberry can be poisonous if eaten.